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Steep Skiing Techniques with Dave Searle
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Courmayeur · Alpine climbing · Mountaineering
The Dent du Géant is a 4,013 m granite tooth on the Mont Blanc massif, climbed from the Torino hut above Courmayeur. The route crosses the Géant glacier, then climbs steep slabs to a summit above 4000m, with views of the Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Grand Combin.
The Dent du Géant is a vertical granite tooth standing clear of the Rochefort ridge, and it is unusual among 4,000 m peaks in that the summit is reached by rock climbing rather than by walking up snow. Programmes run two to three days from the Torino hut with an IFMGA guide.
Acclimatisation and assessment: The days before are usually spent on the nearby ridges — the Aiguilles Marbrées, the Aiguille d'Entrèves traverse — which acclimatise you and let the guide watch how you move before committing.
The approach. From the hut, across the Géant glacier toward the Rochefort ridge, roped and in crampons, to the Salle à Manger at the base of the tooth. Crampons come off there; most people climb in mountaineering boots.
The route. Steep, exposed granite slabs equipped with thick fixed ropes. Using them is normal practice — climbing the slabs free is around grade V and few parties do it.
The descent. A series of exposed abseils down the line of ascent, which many people find the most demanding part of the day.
This is one of the most iconic 4000m peaks in the Alps with amazing views of the Mont Blanc, Matterhorn and Grand Combin from the summit.
The Dent du Géant rises to 4,013 m at the eastern end of the Rochefort ridge on the Franco-Italian frontier. Access is from Courmayeur via the Skyway Monte Bianco to Punta Helbronner at 3,466 m and the Torino hut at 3,375 m.
The approach crosses the Géant glacier beneath the Aiguille de Rochefort and gains the Salle à Manger, the shoulder at the foot of the tooth. From there the granite rises in two pitches of steep slab equipped with fixed ropes.
The Rochefort ridge runs west from the same shoulder — a narrow, corniced snow arête toward the Grandes Jorasses and one of the most elegant lines in the range. The Aiguille de Rochefort, the Aiguille d'Entrèves and the Aiguilles Marbrées are all reached from the same hut, so a stay at the Torino usually covers several objectives.
The season runs July to September, once the approach glacier has settled and the granite has dried.
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The Dent du Géant slabs are around grade V free, but are normally climbed using the fixed ropes, which reduces the technical demand while leaving the exposure intact. The abseil descent is where most parties find it hardest.
The Dent du Géant needs you to be comfortable on steep exposed rock in mountaineering boots and confident abseiling. Prior alpine rock experience and a preparation day on the nearby ridges is normal.
A guided Dent du Géant climb costs from around €300 per day, but it completely depends on the guide.
Yes. Most Dent du Géant programmes build in two days of ridge climbing from the Torino hut beforehand, which acclimatises you and lets the guide assess your movement before the summit day.
The Dent du Géant slabs need to be dry. After fresh snow the route becomes a serious mixed climb. Guides may substitute the Rochefort ridge or another objective from the same hut, or you can reschedule your climb to guarantee success another day.
The Dent du Géant is best climbed July to September.
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