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Oak Course
Location
Zermatt
Estimated Duration
5 Days
Group size
1-3 participants
5-day, 4-night alpine traverse around Monte Rosa from Zermatt, linking glaciers, Italian huts, and up to 11 four-thousanders. A serious, elegant, and very complete route for mountaineers experienced in glacier terrain.
The High Route of Monte Rosa, known as the Spaghetti Tour, is a serious, aesthetic and very complete high mountain traverse. It is aimed at mountaineers with prior experience in glacier progression, confidence with crampons and ice axe, and the ability to maintain effort for five consecutive days at altitude. The trip starts in Zermatt, a very coherent starting point due to logistics and alpine atmosphere. From the Matterhorn Express base station, one quickly accesses Klein Matterhorn, which allows starting the traverse directly on glacier terrain and turning the first day into a highly efficient session. The entry to the route is via the western Breithorn, an ideal summit to check your feelings and start moving roped up. The first night at Guide Val d’Ayas adds alpine continuity to the program and prepares the group for a more technical second day, with Pollux and Castor as protagonists. Midway through the traverse appears one of the most decisive points: the Nose of Lyskamm. It stands out not only for a specific step, but for the full context of glacier, slope and changing conditions. Afterwards, the route gains depth with Balmenhorn and the Vincent Pyramid before sleeping at Gnifetti. The fourth day is the great collection of summits of the program. Corno Nero, Ludwigshöhe, Parrotspitze and Signalkuppe are linked in a very alpine sequence, with continuous progression in altitude culminating at the Capanna Regina Margherita, at 4,554 m, a night that gives character and a lot of personality to the trip. The close comes with the Zumsteinspitze and a long descent over glaciers to the Rotenboden area to return to Zermatt. The special thing about this traverse is not only the possibility of summiting up to 11 four-thousanders, but the quality of the itinerary, the continuity between days and the feeling of truly traversing one of Europe's great alpine stages. It is also a trip that demands a realistic view. Here you don't buy a closed list of summits, but a guided project subject to weather, snow and ice conditions, acclimatization, and the professional judgment of the guide. Precisely because of this, it is so valuable: it combines ambition, mountain reading, and a very rounded alpine narrative from start to finish.
Level
Progressive
Cost
€2,550 per person
• Guides on Oak are verified by Oak, but users should independently confirm a guide’s qualifications.
• Participants are responsible for ensuring their skill level and fitness are suitable for the activity.
• Individuals should only attempt techniques or terrain they feel personally confident with.
• All instructions and safety guidance from the guide should be followed at all times.
• Users must ensure their own equipment is appropriate and in safe working condition.
• Mountain activities carry inherent risks, and participation is at the user’s own discretion.
• Adequate insurance covering mountain travel and rescue is essential.
• Relevant medical information should be shared with the guide.
• Plans may change due to weather or safety considerations, and users should be prepared for this.

Jordi Tosas
IFMGA guide
I’ve spent my life chasing mountains, snow, and wild places across the world — and I still feel the same excitement every time I set foot on a new route. I grew up by the sea, but everything changed when I was 9 years old and discovered the mountains. Since then, I’ve never stopped climbing, skiing, exploring, and learning from them. What began as a passion became my way of life. As a UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide, I’ve led and taken part in adventures across some of the most incredible and demanding landscapes on Earth: alpine-style ascents on 8,000-meter peaks, technical climbs, ski and snowboard expeditions, and route openings from the Arctic to Antarctica, through the Himalayas, Patagonia, deserts, jungles, and remote mountain ranges around the world. But for me, guiding is about much more than summits. It’s about sharing the experience, making good decisions in the mountains, adapting to every situation, and helping each person live something real and unforgettable. My work is built on years of experience, continuous training, mountain medicine, and a deep respect for nature and the people I guide. I’m based in Benasque, in the Pyrenees, although I’ve always felt like a nomad. The mountains have taught me freedom, resilience, and perspective — and they continue to do so every single day. I believe the most important thing is not just where you arrive, but how you live the journey to get there. And that’s exactly what I aim to offer in every trip, climb, or expedition I guide.