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Oak Course
Location
Gressoney-La-Trinité
Estimated Duration
3 Days
Group size
1-3 participants
Level
Three days of mountaineering on Monte Rosa to reach Capanna Margherita and move with margin over some of the most accessible 4000-meter peaks of the Lys sector. A serious high-altitude, glacier, and learning journey.
Complete and detailed itinerary This trip is designed for you if you seek a real mountaineering experience on Monte Rosa, with an iconic goal such as Capanna Margherita and a carefully planned format. It is not a hard technical climbing activity, but a serious high-altitude proposal for very fit people. The great advantage of the program lies in the access via Punta Indren. You start already high up and turn three days into a genuine alpine adventure, without spending time on long approaches. That allows you to enter the glacier terrain earlier and make better use of each day. The first day makes a lot of sense within the trip progression. It is not only about reaching the refuge, but reviewing equipment, adjusting crampons, checking sensations at altitude, and starting to move roped in a high mountain environment with margin and control. The second day is the heart of the program. From Mantova you ascend through the glacier of the Lys sector up to Punta Gnifetti and Capanna Regina Margherita, the highest refuge in Europe. Sleeping at 4,554 m makes this proposal much more powerful than a simple fast ascent. The third day provides the flexibility that makes the 1:3 format valuable. Depending on the group's actual condition and the weather, you can limit yourself to a solid and well-managed descent or link compatible summits such as Vincent or Ludwigshöhe, reserving Parrot or Zumstein for very strong groups. If the group seeks an even more personalized experience, it is also possible to arrange the program at a 1:2 or 1:1 ratio, applying a supplement on top of the base price of the 1:3 format. This option makes special sense when finer rhythm tuning is necessary, increasing management margin or setting objectives of greater alpine commitment, such as Dufourspitze, which must be organized in 1:1 format. What makes this trip special is its balance. It has a very attractive and commercial basic goal, efficient logistics, two mountain refuges with significant alpine weight, and real margin to adapt the program without selling exaggerated promises. It is an honest, premium, and very defensible proposal.
Progressive
Cost
€1,450 per person
• Guides on Oak are verified by Oak, but users should independently confirm a guide’s qualifications.
• Participants are responsible for ensuring their skill level and fitness are suitable for the activity.
• Individuals should only attempt techniques or terrain they feel personally confident with.
• All instructions and safety guidance from the guide should be followed at all times.
• Users must ensure their own equipment is appropriate and in safe working condition.
• Mountain activities carry inherent risks, and participation is at the user’s own discretion.
• Adequate insurance covering mountain travel and rescue is essential.
• Relevant medical information should be shared with the guide.
• Plans may change due to weather or safety considerations, and users should be prepared for this.
Jordi Tosas
IFMGA guide
I’ve spent my life chasing mountains, snow, and wild places across the world — and I still feel the same excitement every time I set foot on a new route. I grew up by the sea, but everything changed when I was 9 years old and discovered the mountains. Since then, I’ve never stopped climbing, skiing, exploring, and learning from them. What began as a passion became my way of life. As a UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide, I’ve led and taken part in adventures across some of the most incredible and demanding landscapes on Earth: alpine-style ascents on 8,000-meter peaks, technical climbs, ski and snowboard expeditions, and route openings from the Arctic to Antarctica, through the Himalayas, Patagonia, deserts, jungles, and remote mountain ranges around the world. But for me, guiding is about much more than summits. It’s about sharing the experience, making good decisions in the mountains, adapting to every situation, and helping each person live something real and unforgettable. My work is built on years of experience, continuous training, mountain medicine, and a deep respect for nature and the people I guide. I’m based in Benasque, in the Pyrenees, although I’ve always felt like a nomad. The mountains have taught me freedom, resilience, and perspective — and they continue to do so every single day. I believe the most important thing is not just where you arrive, but how you live the journey to get there. And that’s exactly what I aim to offer in every trip, climb, or expedition I guide.