Advanced Ice Climbing - 2 Days

A two-day course for climbers with ice mileage who want to lead and to plan their own days. Day one is about leading: moving efficiently on steep ice, finding rests, placing screws quickly from a real stance, and understanding exactly why you do not fall on ice. Day two, conditions and the group allowing, is a multi-pitch waterfall climbed as a team, with the option to lead pitches under supervision and a full V-thread descent. Route choice, reading conditions and managing hazard run through both days, because that is what separates a climber who follows from one who can plan. Outline: Day one covers advanced movement, energy management, mock leading, fast screw placement, fall factors, V-threads, and multi-pitch rope work and belay transitions. Day two covers route planning from guidebook, weather and bulletin, the approach and assessment, the climb itself with optional supervised leads, belay management on a real route, rappelling on V-threads, and self-rescue basics. If the group prefers not to commit to a multi-pitch, day two continues on single pitch with leading, steeper ice and self-rescue. Full syllabus below. Who it's for: You must have done a basic ice course or be able to climb grade 3/4 ice on top rope cleanly and belay competently. You should be fit for a 1 to 2h approach carrying a full rack and rope, and able to keep climbing on day two with tired arms from day one. Being able to stand in a hanging belay in the cold without losing your composure matters here. Gear: Ropes, screws and group anchor material are provided. You bring your own ice tools, crampons, harness and helmet, plus stiff mountaineering boots that take crampons (B2 or B3). Personal kit can be rented locally on request, roughly €40 to 50 a day for a full set including boots. Route choice: The multi-pitch on day two runs only if the whole group is willing and if ice, weather and avalanche conditions are suitable. The guide chooses the waterfall. If it does not go ahead, day two runs as single-pitch training instead, with the same focus on leading and self-rescue. Bad weather: Cogne holds a lot of ice across several valleys, so a thawing or out of condition line usually means a change of venue rather than a lost day. In heavy snowfall with a high avalanche bulletin we stay on short, road-side ice with no approach hazard and the multi-pitch element is dropped.

• Ice tools

• Crampons

• Harness

• Helmet

• Stiff mountaineering boots that take crampons (B2 or B3)

• Belay device

• Two locking carabiners

• Prusik cord

• Warm socks

• Waterproof jacket and trousers

• Warm midlayer

• Insulated belay jacket

• Three pairs of gloves

• Hat

• Sunglasses

• Rucksack 35 to 40 L

• Packed lunch and a hot drink for each day

• Headtorch

• Charged phone

• Small personal first aid kit

Day 1: Introduction, objectives and safety briefing; Advanced movement technique on steep ice; Energy management and resting positions; Lead climbing: principles and mock leading; Fast and efficient ice screw placement; Fall factors and why falling on ice must be avoided; V-thread (Abalakov) construction; Multi-pitch rope management and belay transitions. Day 2: Route planning: guidebooks, conditions, weather and avalanche bulletin; Approach and assessment of the waterfall; Climbing a multi-pitch frozen waterfall, with the option to lead pitches under the guide's supervision; Belay station management on a real route; Descent by multi-pitch rappels on V-threads; Self-rescue basics on a multi-pitch route; Final debrief, feedback and progression plan.

• Guides on Oak are verified by Oak, but users should independently confirm a guide’s qualifications.

• Participants are responsible for ensuring their skill level and fitness are suitable for the activity.

• Individuals should only attempt techniques or terrain they feel personally confident with.

• All instructions and safety guidance from the guide should be followed at all times.

• Users must ensure their own equipment is appropriate and in safe working condition.

• Mountain activities carry inherent risks, and participation is at the user’s own discretion.

• Adequate insurance covering mountain travel and rescue is essential.

• Relevant medical information should be shared with the guide.

• Plans may change due to weather or safety considerations, and users should be prepared for this.