Similaun + Hochvernagtspitze

About

I'm planning a tour to the Similaun (3,597m, PD-, <30°) and the Hintere Schwärze (3,624m, PD, I, 35°) [or alternatively Hochvernagtspitze] starting from Vent (standard route). Day 1 - Hut Approach: Starting from Vent (1,870m), we'll make the long but very scenic approach to the Similaunhütte (3,019m) (12km, 1,200m elevation gain). Day 2 - Similaun: From the Similaunhütte, the route leads quickly and efficiently across the Niederjochferner glacier to the summit of Similaun (3,597m) (2.5km, 600m elevation gain). The trail is almost always well-tracked in summer, and the summit ridge is short and not very exposed. Afterwards, the route descends directly across the glacier to the Martin-Busch-Hütte (2,501m) (6km, 1,200m descent). Day 3 - Hintere Schwärze: Starting from the Martin-Busch-Hütte, the route leads to the Marzellferner glacier. This glacier is very crevassed, but so early in the summer, a layer of snow still remains, forming a dense snow bridge, especially in the morning, which can facilitate traversing. The short summit ridge is moderately exposed and requires only basic scrambling (UIAA I) (6.5km, 1,300m elevation gain). Alternatively we could take the north face to the summit. This is followed by the descent back to Vent (14km, 250m ascent, 1,950m descent). If conditions for the Hintere Schwärze are bad, we can alternatively go to the Vernagthütte or Hochjoch-Hospiz on day 2 instead of the Martin-Busch-Hütte and do the Hochvernagtspitze on day 3.